Italy has a secret island and it’s not only beautiful, it’s cheap

An hour by ferry from Naples, the island of Ischia charms with bargain-priced five-star inns, wineries and thermal hot springs. Photo / Getty Images
An hour by ferry from Naples, the island of Ischia charms with bargain-priced five-star inns, local wineries and thermal hot springs, writes Ginny Prior
More than 65 million people travel to Italy each year — the fifth most-visited country in international tourism, according to the World Tourism Organisation. To find a luxury, lesser-known locale in a sea of vacationers, try the country’s southwest island of Ischia.
Ischia is one of three inhabited land masses, along with Capri and Procida, in the Gulf of Naples. Its high-profile neighbour, Capri, draws more attention, positioning Ischia as a bargain destination with a lot of local charm. An hour by ferry from Naples, Ischia has natural hot springs, cobalt-blue waters, wineries and 10 five-star hotels — some as low as €300 (NZ$540) a night in season.
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Grand Hotel Il Moresco is a 20-minute walk from the Ischia Porto ferry terminal, past colourful boutique shops and footpath cafes. Walk through the gate of the lava-stone wall and you enter a lush garden setting with thermal pools and a Mediterranean villa with luxuriously appointed rooms, many with balconies overlooking the sea. Other five-star hotels were once aristocrat mansions, like the Excelsior Belvedere Hotel and Spa.
Ischia’s mineral-rich springs are known for their healing properties, and draw wellness travellers to public and private spas across the island. A favourite thermal park with indoor/outdoor pools of varying temperatures, Negombo sits on 9ha of gardens and open space overlooking the Bay of San Montano.
Ischai’s history as a grape-growing region goes back to the 8th century BC, when Greek settlers planted vines in the rich volcanic soil. Most of today’s vineyards can be found on the slopes of Mt Epomeo, which stands like a centurion over the island. Most renowned are the white wines produced from the Biancolella grape, grown here for hundreds of years.
The bounty of Ischia is seen in its farming and fishing, too, and there’s no shortage of notable restaurants on the largest island in the archipelago. La Pergola in the Grand Hotel Il Moresco is one example of a restaurant featuring locally sourced seafood and produce in an exquisite, white tablecloth setting with highly attentive waiters.
For the more adventurous eater, the island’s indigenous rabbit is a favorite traditional dish. Several restaurants have their own version of coniglio all’ischitana, and Trattoria Il Focolare was featured on CNN’s Searching for Italy with Stanley Tucci.
One of the best ways to explore the island of Ischia is by renting a private boat and captain at one of three ports on the island, Ischia Porto, Forio or Casamicciola Terme. Ischia Porto is the main port and a popular spot for boat rentals. West Coast Boat Rentals offers all-day tours of the island for as little as €400, taking swimmers to “secret” coves where they can snorkel and dive off the lava rocks.
A popular stop for boaters is Ischia Ponte, a well-preserved fishing village in the shadow of Castello Aragones, a 5th-century BC castle and citadel that is open to the public 365 days a year. The beautifully preserved and restored walled fortress sits on a craggy inlet connected to the island by a causeway. With postcard views of the island and Mt Epomeo, the castle and its two towers are a prominent landmark on Ischia. Meanwhile, the village below is a mix of small businesses, humble historic homes and aristocratic palaces. One of the baroque palaces is home to a marine museum, the Museo del Mare, a Carthusian monastery dating back to the early 1300s.
Boaters looking for a unique dining experience can dock at Ristorante La Scarrupata, accessible only by private boat or water taxi from Sant’Angelo — an ancient fishing village, artist colony and spa — or from La Mandra Beach near Ischia Ponte.
Hiking is also popular on Ischia, with one of the most scenic trails ascending Mt Epomeo. A volcano-tectonic horst, it takes about an hour to trek to the top of the mountain for an extraordinary view of Ischia, Naples, Mt Vesuvius, Capri and Sorrento. One of Ischia’s many historic churches can be seen on this path, St Nicholas of Bari, dating back to 1459.
Conversely, you can dive to the mythical underwater city of Aenaria by booking a trip with the island outfitter, Nemo. Or take a glass-bottom boat to see the remnants of this 4th-century Roman town that sank after a violent volcanic eruption triggered earthquakes and tsunamis. Then, learn more about the island’s ancient history with a tour of the Archaeological Museum of Pithecusae where the star attraction is the Cup of Nestor, an artefact dating back to the 8th century BC. The Greek writing engraved on it reveals the important role that Pithecusae (now Ischia) played as a trading port.
The seismic activity is constantly monitored in this region, which lies between the legendary volcano Vesuvius and the underwater craters in the Phlegraean Fields. It’s those very forces of nature that have made Ischia unique and one of the most biodiverse destinations in the world.
GETTING THERE
Fly from Auckland to Naples with two stopovers with multiple airlines. The ferry trip from Naples to Ischia takes between 50 minutes and 1 hour 45 minutes.
DETAILS
visitischia.info/en